On certain nights in the tiny town of Dingle,Ireland

On certain nights in the tiny town of Dingle,Ireland, residents can hear the strains of music coming from an ancient church, with musicians from around the world having made the long journey to the westernmost edge of the country. And on other nights — the local fishermen will swear by this — you can hear the distant sounds ofManhattan traffic leaping across the Atlantic into the mists just off the coast.

Those two sounds, one improbable and the other probably mythic, came together for two nights late last week, when “Other Voices,” an Irish television program that films performances in the 200-year-old St. James Church in Dingle, took up residence at Le Poisson Rouge in Greenwich Village. The “session,” to use the nomenclature of Irish culture, combined poetry and readings from the likes of Paul Muldoon and Colum McCann with music that included collaborations between established artists like Martha Wainwright and lesser-known ones likeBell X1.

“Other Voices” came to New York to celebrate 10 years of enticing musicians, including Amy Winehouse, Billy Bragg and the National, to make their ways to County Kerry to join local musicians for intimate sets and unexpected mash-ups of the ancient and modern. True to form, Friday night included both a traditional violin performance from the Irish fiddler Martin Hayes and Laurie Anderson’s spoken-word incantations. (In a small-world moment, Lou Reed, who came to watch his wife, Ms. Anderson, got a mention in a poem by Joseph O’Connor that featured shout-outs to downtown New York artists like Tom Verlaine and the Ramones.)

After the event, Mr. McCann, the Irish-born author of “Let the Great World Spin,” who read one of his early short stories from the stage, tried to explain why a music series from a tiny town in coastal Ireland looked so at home in New York.

“We often say that New York is the 33rd county of Ireland,” he said. “Not to be twee about it, but tonight was a reminder that even though Irelandhas its share of financial troubles right now, this kind of thing is very important to building and reinforcing the cultural bridges that have givenIreland a special place here.”

Like a lot of the performers, Mr. McCann pointed to the election held in Ireland that day, in which Michael D. Higgins, a poet, beat a businessman, among others, to become the president.

“That is very much a part of who we are,” he said, “and as we try to dig ourselves out of a situation, part of the fix is in who we are and the music and art we produce for ourselves and the rest of the world.”

The evening was produced by Phillip King, who runs “Other Voices”; the musician Thomas Bartlett; and Glen Hansard, the former Irish busker and musician in the Frames who came to prominence in the movie “Once.” The night was billed as a benefit for Fighting Words, the charity established by the writer Roddy Doyle (“The Commitments,” “The Snapper” and “The Van”), to teach creative writing to schoolchildren in Ireland.

During a quick bite before the show, Mr. Hansard said he hosted “Other Voices” when it began and became hooked on its ability to strip music down to its elemental form. “Everything today is about context,” he said. “We are all told whether we should or should not like something and how important it is. On a night like this, it’s less about who you are than what you can bring to the evening.” In his bit of tribute to the event’s location in the Village, Mr. Hansard sang a version of Bob Dylan’s “When I Paint My Masterpiece.”

So what attracts these artists to Dingle? After singing a version of “Tell My Sister,” written by her mother, Kate McGarrigle, who recently died, Martha Wainwright explained what she called its magical properties by talking about a trip she and her brother, Rufus, had made there.

“We were driving toward a double rainbow, and then a herd of wild horses came galloping along the beach,” she said, expressing profane amazement at the sight. On her third song, “Talk to Me of Mendocino,” Ms. Wainwright was joined in a duet by Sam Amidon, an American folk musician.

Mr. Amidon embodied the ethos of the evening. He sang traditional melodies like “Streets of Derry,” which sounded as if they had sailed over fromIreland, taken a trip down to the Appalachians and then headed back north for the listening. And when he wasn’t singing, he drifted back in with the band, on banjo, guitar and violin, as other musicians and writers came and went.

The actor Gabriel Byrne read a poem by Yeats. He also serves as the cultural ambassador for Ireland, an unpaid position in which he works with ImagineIreland, part of a governmental effort to export Irish culture.

“You see it in the performances and even in the rehearsals as these two traditions came together,” he said after the event. “New York has always played a big role in terms of Irish immigration and in the Irish imagination. And the people who came here brought much of that culture and traditions with them. It seemed natural to spend an evening celebrating that.”

It was something of a cliché that the evening ended with everyone’s coming back onstage to sing “The Parting Glass,” the Irish ode to a night of song and drinking among mates. But no one seemed to mind.

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National Geographic Traveller guidebook describes the Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

National Geographic Traveller guidebook describes the Dingle Peninsula as “the most beautiful place on earth” and hiking The Dingle Way allows you to immerse yourself in that raw beauty. This 65 mile trail takes you through hills clad in heather and abundant in wild flowers. You will be treated to sights of natural wonder as well as transported through time on this historical way. The route is littered with awe inspiring views of extensive mountain ranges, miles of soft white beach and rich glorious forest. The 120km of the  Dingle Way is an ideal escape from modern life, somewhere to relax into the easy pace of life in this glorious part of the world. .. the nearest “parish” to North America.
·Wandering through the array of archaeological monuments which pepper the route · Sampling traditional Irish music and perhaps a pint of Guinness in Dingle · Giving your feet some relief by dipping them in the refreshing waters at Ventry Harbour · Your first view of the inspiring Dingle Bay · Breathing in the scents of wildflowers, heather and the fresh ocean air, this is what walking the Dingle way is about.

National Geographic Traveller guidebook describes the Dingle Peninsula as “the most beautiful place on earth” and hiking The Dingle Way allows you to immerse yourself in that raw beauty. This 65 mile trail takes you through hills clad in heather and abundant in wild flowers. You will be treated to sights of natural wonder as well as transported through time on this historical way. The route is littered with awe inspiring views of extensive mountain ranges, miles of soft white beach and rich glorious forest. The 120km of the  Dingle Way is an ideal escape from modern life, somewhere to relax into the easy pace of life in this glorious part of the world. .. the nearest “parish” to North America.

walking dingle peninsula ireland

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Ireland: walk of the month – Daily Telegraph

Ireland: walk of the month

Christopher Somerville is swept along the Dingle Way.

Of course it turned out that Cameron Heaton, my guesthouse host on the shores of Dingle Harbour, was some kind of a cousin of mine. The family’s pleasant but formal greetings turned into cries of delight. While the breakfast pancakes were cooking I was put on the phone to Cameron’s mother up in Galway, a great family historian. ‘Well, this is just wonderful – a West Cork Somerville! You must come and see me. Come and stay!’

You somehow grow to expect such warming coincidences when you’re travelling in the west of Ireland. The previous night in Dingle’s best traditional music pub, the Small Bridge, I’d stumbled across a friend I’d thought was in America – Brendan Begley, a melodeon magician. The ensuing session had zipped along until one in the morning, and my lips were now sore from over-enthusiastic harmonica honking. The legs were fine, though; and that’s what mattered, with a dozen miles of the Dingle Way to cover on this blowy, blustery West Kerry day.

I’d last been down this way fifteen years before, approaching the end of an 800-mile walk from top to bottom of Ireland. I’d fallen head over heels in love with the rugged and mountainous Dingle peninsula, the northernmost of five that poke out like stumpy fingers into the Atlantic from the southwest extremity of the island. Back then the Dingle Way was in its infancy, and a rough, boggy, badly-marked path it had proved. I was looking forward to retracing old footsteps today, and seeing if things had improved along the track since then.

John Ahern was waiting for me outside the South Pole Inn in Anascaul. John’s small company, South West Walks Ireland, takes people on guided rambles all over Ireland, or provides the backup for them to walk on their own if they prefer. There isn’t much about the Dingle Way that John doesn’t know, and if he’s stumped he’ll spin you a yarn about it anyway. I couldn’t have wished for a more vigorous or conversational companion on a day when the north wind seemed determined to drive blacker and blacker clouds of wetter and wetter content in over the peninsula’s mountains and out again across Dingle Bay. When Ireland’s Atlantic coast decides to put on this sort of display, it does it wholeheartedly.

Mind you, the drenchings we got would have been laughed to scorn – if he had even registered them – by the man whose name was lettered along the front of the South Pole Inn. Thomas Crean was a hard, hard man. As a teenager in the 1890s he ran away from Anascaul to join the Navy. He accompanied Captain Scott on two of his famous Antarctic expeditions, including the doomed journey of 1910-12. He voyaged 800 miles with Ernest Shackleton in an open boat through the Southern Ocean in a bid to fetch help for colleagues trapped by pack ice. Then he came home to Anascaul and ran the pub, spinning tales across the counter until his death in 1938, having reached the age of 61 against all the odds.

‘A mighty man,’ agreed John as we tramped the roads westward, ‘but not quite as mighty as our famous Irish giant Fionn MacCumhaill.’ He pointed up to a corrie in the mountain walls darkened by rain shadow. ‘That’s where Fionn’s girlfriend drowned herself in the lake when she thought he’d been killed in a battle with another giant. But he hadn’t, of course. You couldn’t kill a hero like Fionn!’

Black blocks of rain dragging fragments of rainbow in their skirts melted into brief windows of intense sunshine, making the gorse hedges glow sulphurously and the bushes of may shine blindingly white. Down on the southern shore we passed the grim tower of Minard Castle – a Fitzgerald stronghold blown to ruins in the 1650s by Oliver Cromwell’s men, said John. Gannets were planing over Dingle Bay on black-tipped wings, toppling over to plunge into the rain-pocked sea after fish. On the far shore of the bay rose the mountain ridges of the Iveragh peninsula, far higher and more sharply cut than Dingle’s smoothly undulating backbone.

Beyond the castle, hidden in a leafy dingle, we found a beautiful horseshoe of grass enclosing Tobar Eoin, St John’s Well. Offerings of coins and bright white quartz chips lay at the bottom of the little pool. The gently dimpling water was cool on my music-battered lips, sweet on the palate. Good for the eyes, John told me. Above the well a seamed old tree had been festooned with strips of rag, each tied there for a wish or a prayer.

Narrow country lanes led us on westward, climbing into the foothills of the mountains past abandoned farms where trees flourished in the derelict rooms. John beguiled the showers and the miles with talk, telling me of the difficulties he’d experienced as a merchant navy radio operator with very little English. Education in the rural Ireland of the 1950s and 60s was highly politicised, and all John’s schooling had been in Gaelic. That, however, hadn’t stopped him developing a champion gift of the gab in both tongues, it seemed.

For a short while we followed the line of the old Tralee & Dingle Light Railway. This rickety-rackety branch line, closed with much mourning in 1953, was a wonder and a wild amusement to legions of enthusiasts. The fireman’s duties including pelting coal lumps at sheep straying on the line. You could run from Tralee to Dingle more swiftly than the trains would trundle. ‘It was a nice question,’ said John, ‘as to who took on more liquid refreshment at Camp Junction – the engine or the guard! Oh, a great institution, and a great source of crack.’

Now the Dingle Way left the lanes and climbed up to cross the slopes of Cruach Sceirde, the Scattered Mountain. The stones of ancient huts and field walls patterned the brown turf. We climbed above small mountain farms to a high pass in the teeth of wind and rain. Below in a hollow of the coast the circle of Dingle Harbour lay cradled. A beautiful pale sunset layered the sea beyond with pure silver. A long gleaming ribbon of laneway led us down out of the rainy hills, into the town where strangers and friends seem two sides of the same coin,


STEPPING OUT

MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery Series Sheet 70. Walk route maps in Dingle Way guide books/leaflets.

TRAVEL: Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly to Dublin; Aer Arann (www.aerarann.com) from Dublin to Kerry. Dan Dooley (www.dan-dooley.ie) rent cars at Kerry airport. N22 road to Tralee; N86 to Dingle.

From Dingle, take Tralee bus (4 a day, 5 in summer: 7.15 and 10.15 a.m. are the most useful) to start of walk in Anascaul; or Moran’s Taxis (freephone 1800-605705 or 087/086-275-3333).

WALK DIRECTIONS: Full directions in Dingle Way guide books/leaflets. Route is well waymarked throughout with yellow ‘walking man’ symbols and arrows.

In brief: From South Pole Inn, Anascaul (593019), cross river. 200 yd up Dingle road, left (Dingle Way waymark – DW) along Castlemaine road. Left along R561 (589013); in 150 yd fork right up narrow lane. Follow it for 3 miles to Minard Castle (555992). Ahead up lane; in 50 yd fork right (DW) up grassy track (Tobar Eoin/St John’s Well is in front of you here). Continue on road through Minard East (549997); in 1/4 mile, left by bungalow with garden wall (545999 – DW) for ½ mile to T-junction. Right here uphill (539995 – DW) for 3/4 mile, passing Tobar Beannaithe graveyard (537003) to turn right at top of hill (536006 – DW). At T-junction (DW), left downhill into Bheag village.

On right bend, left (538012 – DW) along lane for 1 1/3 miles to join N86 Dingle road by post office in Lispole (519010). Forward across bridge; immediately right on lane rising towards mountains. At fork (517018 – DW), left on lane to bear right into fields after 1 mile (502024 – DW) – NB!! Not where OS map shows it at 510022!!

Up three fields; then bear left (503028 – DW) to road. Forward through Lisdargan to junction by Durane’s B&B notice (501031 – DW). Right; in 50 yd left (DW) along green lane. In 300 yards, left off lane (DW), over bog and fields by stiles (DW) to road through farming hamlet (488032). In 200 yd right (DW) across fields to road (482032). Continue to pass a house; in 50 yards, right (479031 – yellow arrow) up stony track, following DW up mountainside for 2/3 mile to cross Garfinny River and reach road (474038). Left for 2/3 mile to cross Connor Pass road (466031 – DW). Continue down long lane for 1 3/4 miles into Dingle.

LENGTH: 12 miles: allow 6–7 hours

CONDITIONS: Can be very wet and muddy; wear wet weather gear and walking boots.

REFRESHMENTS: South Pole Inn, Anascaul. (NB None en route – take picnic).

DINGLE WAY GUIDE BOOKS/LEAFLETS: From Dingle Tourist Office, Strand Street, Dingle (066-915-1188)

SOUTHWESTWALKS IRELAND:. 28 The Anchorage Tralee, Co. Kerry (00-353-66-71-28733; www.southwestwalksireland.com).

INFORMATION: www.visitireland.ie.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/ireland/733096/Ireland-walk-of-the-month.html

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Stunning views of Valencia Island with a soundtrack of traditional Irish music.

Stunning views of Valencia Island with a soundtrack of  traditional Irish music.

Oileán Dairbhre – Valencia Island Ireland

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Joys of walking in County Kerry -Excellent TV commercial

Excellent TV Commercial promoting the Joys of walking in County Kerry

County Kerry \’Smiles\’ TV Commercial

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Getting a foothold in expandingbusiness of walk tours

Getting a foothold in expandingbusiness of walk tours

The Irish Examiner recently posted an interview with John Ahern of SouthWest Walks Ireland.

It can be seen here.

Getting afoothold inexpandingbusiness of walk tours

Getting afoothold inexpandingbusiness of walk tours

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Dingle Peninsula is a popular Irish walking / Hiking Location

The Dingle Peninsula is one of Ireland’s most popular walking and hiking destinations.
The peninsula exists because of the band of sandstone rock that forms the Slieve Mish mountain range at the neck of the peninsula, in the east, and the unnamed central mountain range further to the west. Ireland’s highest mountain outside Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Mount Brandon at 951 m, forms part of a beautiful high ridge with stunning views over the peninsula and North Kerry.
walking ireland
The Conor Pass, which runs from Dingle on the southern end of the peninsula towards Brandon Bay and Castlegregory in the North, is the highest mountain pass in Ireland, a tight, precarious road, weaving its way around the sharp cliff faces and past the high corrie lakes.
The Blasket Islands lie off the west coast. They are famous for the literary and linguistic heritage of the former inhabitants. However, these remote islands have been uninhabited since the 1950s following an evacuation.

Dingle Peninsula Map

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Across the Miles on St Patricks Day

Across the miles on St Patricks Day

Across the miles on St Patricks Day

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Walking Ireland -Aran Islands

The Aran Islands (Irish: Oileáin Árann — Aran Islands ) or The Arans (na hÁrainneacha ) are a group of three islands located at the mouth of Galway Bay, on the west coast of Ireland. They constitute the barony of Aran in County Galway,Ireland. From west to east they are: Inishmore (Árainn Mhór/Inis Mór , the largest; Inishmaan (Inis Meáin/Inis Meadhóin ), the second-largest; and Inisheer (Inis Thiar/Inis Oírr/Inis Oirthir , the smallest. Irish is the main spoken language on all three islands, and is the language used naming the islands and their villages and town lands.  Click here for details of SouthWest Walks Ireland walking holidays in the Aran Islands.

Aran Islands IrelandAran IslandsAran Islands Galway Ireland
Aran Islands

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A Woman’s Skirt – Walking Ireland

My favourite maxi skirt travels round the world with me, always ready for night out, be it socializing or singing at the bar in Renville, flouncing at a ceilidh on Inis Siar, clubbing with the ‘girls’ in Temple Bar or indeed flapping round my legs in more clement weather on a mountain side. So it was for its all round probabilities of its usage that is was carefully washed, ironed and folded and packed for the big event the South West Walking holiday Summer 2006.
This was no ordinary piece of clothing… It was of the deepest shade of indigo blue, possibly a touch of the denim, hanging delicately in several tiers each section attached with finest webbing of similar crochet type lacing. This interlacing, though subtle in its texture, suggested a glimpse of skin and so added to its mystery and elegance. This garment had graced many social events and by clever accessorising always appeared different and unique. Naturally on arrival at my various destinations it was carefully taken from its folded position and hung up to ensure it would be ready for any sudden demands. That July, what glorious week we had treading on magnificent mountain paths, followed by gourmet meals and rapturous sing-songs into the night.
On the last day of the holiday we took the ferry to Baltimore and bade our final farewells.
As I had the pleasure of staying overnight in Baltimore, one last wearing of the skirt was inevitable. Can you imagine my horror, when not a sign of the beloved garment was to be seen in the folded crevices of the bag? Immediately I contacted the Sherkin Hotel and having given them my room number, they kindly informed me that a search would take place and I would be contacted in due course. The joy of the call, yes! Skirt found and would be on the next ferry at 6 pm. I had the afternoon to savour the anticipation of the reunion and so sauntered round Baltimore taking the walk to the Tower as the kindly SouthWestWalks Ireland guide had suggested followed by a pint at the quay on that balmy summer evening.
At 5.50pm, the dot on the foamy horizon became the familiar ferry and I immediately left my new found friends at the quayside to re claim the ‘skirt’. The twinkly eyed captain handed me a large brown parcel for which I thanked him and also conveyed my good wishes to the miraculous manager of the Sherkin hotel.
As this parcel seemed a little heavy I ordered to investigate the contents, I tore away a little of the brown paper , then more, slowly revealing not what was familiar, not what was dear to me, but a large black velvet curtain.! Oh the disappointment, Oh the grief! The ferry captain was perplexed as I thrust the now untidy parcel into his cabin requesting immediate return of same to the Sherkin Hotel.
Frenzied phone calls followed but neither the whereabouts of the ‘skirt’ or the’ black curtain parcel’ could be solved. I returned to Dublin feeling skirt-less and senseless, vowing to continue to hack the mystery of the brown parcel.
During the months of August to December I happily viewed pictures of splendid walking trips did normal family things but deep in my soul there was the great sadness of the missing skirt.
Many e-mails to Sherkin Hotel were sent where the kindly but baffled manager endeavoured to get to the bottom of the mystery and even the kindly intervention of John Ahern, well known entrepreneur and walker did not alleviate the situation.
On December 21st 2006 on answering my door a white padded package was delivered containing the ‘skirt’! It had no sender’s name but I sent my Christmas thanks to the Sherkin hotel.
Mary Kelly, USA
Enjoying a pint of Guinness after walking the Dingle Peninsula Ireland

Enjoying a pint of Guinness after walking the Dingle Peninsula Ireland

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